| Sat 02.14.09 |
Lentil Soup |

Last week, I was in Texas where during the day the temperature got up in the high 70s. This week in Washington, the highs have been in the 30s, the wind's been gusting at over 40 mph, and there are weather advisories due to the icy roads. I actually don't mind it that much anymore -- it's just something to get used to, really -- rather, I'm just reminded how winter here is a little bit more serious a business than in Texas. But thankfully, we have soup.
The soups I've been making this winter have all started out pretty much the same way: mirepoix and potatoes sautéed in a big pot, followed by tomato paste, some seasoning, water or stock, and then all of this is boiled until the vegetables fall apart. Afterwards goes in the vegetables that are to keep their texture, and these are allowed to cook through but not too much. I've been especially partial to cabbage and mushrooms. And to make it a heartier soup, I've also been adding soaked beans or grains like barley or wheat berries.
This time, I found stashed away in my cupboard a bag of lentils. Not just any lentils, mind you, but lentilles de Puy, the Auvergne lentils often described as a poor man's caviar. The nice thing about these lentils is that when cooked, unlike the non-de-Puy variety which become rather mushy, they take on a tender but still-toothsome al dente texture (hence the caviar comparison). It may be somewhat weird to use these fancy lentils in something as pedestrian as soup (and in fact regular green or yellow lentils would be perfectly fine here), but the firmer texture of these lentils is useful in something that is cooked long and reheated several times. I've been eating the leftovers over two days and the lentils, while certainly less al dente, still have a nice texture.
Overall, I have to say this is quite a good soup. It's warm and filling, full of the earthy flavors of stewed vegetables and the nuttiness of the lentils. These and the scant few tablespoons of tomato paste give the broth plenty of body so you don't even really need stock. I also threw in the rind of a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano, which added some roundness and complexity. With the cheese rind the soup is still vegetarian, but if you wanted to go the vegan route you could omit it easily enough.
One more thing: if you haven't discovered the awesomeness that is the trinity of garlic, bay leaves, and orange zest, this is a good recipe to try it. I've been using that flavor base in almost everything lately, from soups to rice to tomato sauce.
Lentil Soup
1 onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced or grated
2 stalks celery, diced
2 medium potatoes (I used boiling potatoes but Russets are fine), diced
2-3 tablespoons tomato paste
3 cloves garlic, minced
zest of 1 orange
2 bay leaves
the rind off a chunk of Parmigiano
2 cups lentils
Heat a large pot over medium heat. When it is hot, add some oil and begin sautéeing the onion, carrot and celery. When the mirepoix has softened and has become slightly brown, add the potatoes and allow them to slightly brown as well. Season everything, of course.
Next, add the tomato paste and cook it for about 30 seconds until it takes on a brick-ish, rusty color. Add the garlic, orange zest, and bay leaves, stir up the pot, then add enough water to cover. Bring this to a boil, add the cheese rind, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are very soft, about 35-40 minutes.
Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning. Pick over the lentils, then add them to the pot and let them cook, covered, for about 25-30 minutes, until they are tender but not too soft. Finish by stirring in a few tablespoons of olive oil.
1 onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced or grated
2 stalks celery, diced
2 medium potatoes (I used boiling potatoes but Russets are fine), diced
2-3 tablespoons tomato paste
3 cloves garlic, minced
zest of 1 orange
2 bay leaves
the rind off a chunk of Parmigiano
2 cups lentils
Heat a large pot over medium heat. When it is hot, add some oil and begin sautéeing the onion, carrot and celery. When the mirepoix has softened and has become slightly brown, add the potatoes and allow them to slightly brown as well. Season everything, of course.
Next, add the tomato paste and cook it for about 30 seconds until it takes on a brick-ish, rusty color. Add the garlic, orange zest, and bay leaves, stir up the pot, then add enough water to cover. Bring this to a boil, add the cheese rind, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are very soft, about 35-40 minutes.
Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning. Pick over the lentils, then add them to the pot and let them cook, covered, for about 25-30 minutes, until they are tender but not too soft. Finish by stirring in a few tablespoons of olive oil.



























