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Fried Rice, Dad-approved |
My parents are no slouches in the kitchen. Looking back, the meals my brothers and I had growing up were quite a motley bunch. Most often, as is de rigeur in Vietnamese cooking, we'd share among ourselves a variety of dishes - usually some sautéed greens, something stir-fried, and some soup - all accompanied by a lots of steamed rice. But after living in Texas for a while, my parents also developed a penchant for Creole food, and I think ours was the only table in town that saw rau muon alongside fish court-bouillon, or canh chua one night and crawfish étoufée the next. And of course, other American staples crept in. We had our fair share of meatloaf.
While my mom would prepare most meals, on some weekends or special occasions my dad would take to the kitchen, usually cooking larger cuts of meat like steaks or roasted chicken or lamb. It was somewhat of a big deal when this would happen, though in all honesty I most looked forward to the next morning, when my dad would take the leftovers and make fried rice.
Ok, fried rice. I've eaten and prepared lots of fried rice vastly inferior to my dad's, but I think I've gotten a handle on it now. You just need to keep in mind a few key principles.
First, simpler is better. Seriously. It is tempting to start adding in some garlic, and then some ginger, and then some carrots, and then some peas, and then before you know it you have a big mushy mess. No no no. Fried rice is for (deliciously) extending and using up leftovers. The only things going in that aren't already cooked are onions and eggs. Sometimes shallots. Maybe scallions.
Second, you must use leftover rice. The rice is only briefly fried on very high heat, so it must be cooked through and cooled so it dries out a little and firms up. Freshly cooked rice will turn to mush. If you're without leftover rice, you'll have to make some rice now and wait until tomorrow.
Third, cook it under the highest heat, with your biggest wok or pan. Don't overload the pan -- too much rice and the parts not in contact with the pan start to steam, resulting in mushy rice. Because the pan is screaming hot, you have to constantly be tossing the rice to keep it from burning, so it's much easier to cook in something really big. The amount of rice you cook at a time should depend on the size of the pan.
Finally, a generous amount of black or (preferably) white pepper is a nice touch. It should be added at the very end or even after the rice is plated, so the heat of the rice will draw out the aroma at its peak just as the rice is served.
I made this batch of fried rice last time I was in Houston visiting my parents. We didn't have a leftover roast this time, but rather some fried tofu that had been made with mushrooms and ground pork. I thought it turned out well, though I would have preferred to eat this with an accompaniment of do chua, pickled vegetables which add a nice crunch and sourness. But my dad had some and gave it his approval, which is good enough for me.
Dad-Approved Fried Rice
2-3 cups com muoi, leftover rice
1 onion, finely chopped
2 extra-large or 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
several ounces leftover meat or vegetables
2-3 tablespoons soy sauce, to taste
2-3 tablespoons fish sauce, to taste
canola or peanut oil, for frying
salt
ground white pepper
To begin, heat your largest wok or skillet over high heat with a tablespoon of oil. Take your leftover meat or vegetables and slice them thinly. When the oil is hot, add them to the wok and stir fry them just for a couple minutes or so, seasoning them with about a tablespoon of soy sauce. Remove them to a plate.
Add another tablespoon of oil to the wok and fry the onion with a pinch of salt, still over scorching heat, until translucent and slightly brown around the edges. Push the onion to one side of the wok, add another tablespoon of oil, then add the rice. Break up the rice with a spoon or spatula (or "some kind of half-sy") and start tossing the rice continuously. Season the rice, to taste, with the fish sauce and soy sauce -- this will depend on how much rice you have. If the rice is a little sticky, at a bit more oil.
After about 5 to 7 minutes, when the rice is barely turning brown around the edges, return the leftovers to the wok, toss this together for thirty seconds, then push this to one side. Add a bit more oil and pour in the eggs. Wait about ten seconds for the eggs to briefly set while you season them with salt and then break up the eggs and mix everything together. Top everything with a generous amount of ground white pepper. You can also add scallions now if you'd like.
Plate this up to your waiting friends and family, passing extra white pepper if they'd like it a little spicier. If you happen to have some do chua, whether pickled cabbage, carrots, or daikon, pass around a plate of that, too.
2-3 cups com muoi, leftover rice
1 onion, finely chopped
2 extra-large or 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
several ounces leftover meat or vegetables
2-3 tablespoons soy sauce, to taste
2-3 tablespoons fish sauce, to taste
canola or peanut oil, for frying
salt
ground white pepper
To begin, heat your largest wok or skillet over high heat with a tablespoon of oil. Take your leftover meat or vegetables and slice them thinly. When the oil is hot, add them to the wok and stir fry them just for a couple minutes or so, seasoning them with about a tablespoon of soy sauce. Remove them to a plate.
Add another tablespoon of oil to the wok and fry the onion with a pinch of salt, still over scorching heat, until translucent and slightly brown around the edges. Push the onion to one side of the wok, add another tablespoon of oil, then add the rice. Break up the rice with a spoon or spatula (or "some kind of half-sy") and start tossing the rice continuously. Season the rice, to taste, with the fish sauce and soy sauce -- this will depend on how much rice you have. If the rice is a little sticky, at a bit more oil.
After about 5 to 7 minutes, when the rice is barely turning brown around the edges, return the leftovers to the wok, toss this together for thirty seconds, then push this to one side. Add a bit more oil and pour in the eggs. Wait about ten seconds for the eggs to briefly set while you season them with salt and then break up the eggs and mix everything together. Top everything with a generous amount of ground white pepper. You can also add scallions now if you'd like.
Plate this up to your waiting friends and family, passing extra white pepper if they'd like it a little spicier. If you happen to have some do chua, whether pickled cabbage, carrots, or daikon, pass around a plate of that, too.
